Method and apparatus for manufacturing garment parts

ABSTRACT

Method and apparatus for turning, shaping and topstitching a multiple-ply garment part including a collapsible form which shapes and delivers the turned garment part to a clamping jig for subsequent topstitching.

United States Patent Richard J. McFalls Troy, N.Y.

Dec. 15, 1969 Mar. 9, 1971 Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc. Troy, N.Y.

[72] Inventor [21] Appl. No. [22] Filed [45] Patented [73] Assignee [54] METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MANUFACTURING GARMENT PARTS 6 Claims, 6 Drawing Figs. [5 2] US. Cl. 223/2 [51] Int. CL; A41h 43/00 [50] Field of Search 223/2, 38, 1, 61, 63, 65

Primary Examiner-Jordan Franklin Assistant Examiner-George V. Larkin Attorneys Leo Fornero, Robert J;Dockery and Robert J.

Seligman ABSTRACT: Method and apparatus for turning, shaping and topstitching a multiple-ply garment part including a co11apsible form which shapes and delivers the turned garment part to a clamping jig for subsequent topstitching.

PATENTEU MAR 9 |97| SHEET 1 [1F 2 RICHARD J". McFALLS IN VENTOR.

PATENTEDHAR 912m 3568397 sum 2 OF 2 RICHARD J. I I FEI LS al /4L METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MANUFACTURING GARMENT PARTS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to an improved method and apparatus for turning and shaping garment parts, such as collars and cuffs, which include multiple plies of fabric stitched about part of their periphery and which must be turned inside out and shaped preparatory to further stitching operations.

Although the invention will be described with reference to a multiple-ply collar, it will be appreciated by one skilled in the art that a variety of garment parts may be fabricated according to the present invention. As is well known in the art, collars typically are manufactured by superimposing three plies of fabric in registry with one another, the two outer plies originally being arranged together, with the interliner initially forming a third layer. The three plies are then stitched on a line of stitching extending along one longitudinal edge and the two transverse edges. Where the longitudinal and transverse lines of stitching meet, the collar points are formed. The collar is then shaped on a machine such as the one disclosed in US. Pat. No. 2,553,194. Thereafter, a line of top stitching is run paralleling the concealed longitudinal and transverse lines of stitching, thus forming a completed collar which is ready for attachment to the collar band.

In typical prior art machines, the operator works on only one point of a collar at a time, forming each point separately. In order to speed up the operation, foot pedals and tandem arrangements are used whereby the operator can be placing one collar over a die while she is pressing a second collar. An arrangement allowing for one operation on the entire collar rather than separate operations on i the collar points will reduce the hand motions required to produce a collar. An additional aspect is that the individual handling of the two points of a collar may result in some irregularities in the whole collar shape. The known methods furthermore do not take full advantage of profile stitching machines which sew a clamped piece according to a cam or pantograph tracing.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has certain beneficial features, one of which is a reduction in number of the manufacturing operations. Another feature is uniformity in size of garment parts produced. A further feature of the invention is that the shaped garment part can be topstitched more accurately than heretofore was possible.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved apparatus for manufacturing garment parts.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the stitched collar plies are placed wrong side out over a pair of fixed pins. A second pair of slidable pins is moved into engagement with the fixed pins. The collar is then turned over the slidable pins and simultaneously drawn over a pair of pointed die blades, the latter having been positioned directly above and adjacent to the slidable pins. The slidable pins are then retracted and the turned collar is shaped into its final form by an outward expansion of the die blades. The shaped collar is then delivered by the die blades to a clamping jig which retains the shaped collar, subsequent to the retreat of the die blades, by gripping the collar around a portion of its periphery. The clamping jig cooperates with a topstitching machineto stitch the turned collar. If a cuff having rounded corners is being turned and shaped, then the use of pins of course is optional.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS With the foregoing objects and features in mind, the invention will be more fully understood by reference to the drawings, the accompanying detailed description and the appended claims.

In the Drawings: 7

FIG. 1 is a top plan view of a device constructed in accordance with the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a side elevational view of the device of FIG. 1.

FIG. 3 is a perspective view of the device of FIG. 1.

FIG. 4 is a plan view showing a modification of certain portions of the apparatus shown in FIGS. 1, 2, and 3.

FIG. 5 is a perspective view of the device of FIG. 4.

FIG. 6 is a fragmentary view of the device of FIG. 4 showing the die blade assembly approaching its final position.

The drawings should be understood to be more or less of a schematic representation. Like numerals identify like elements in the several views.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring now to the drawings and particularly to FIGS. 1, 2 and 3 it will be observed that the apparatus is suitably mounted on and supported by a table 12 having a forwardly and downwardly sloping top 13.

For turning a collar 10 (FIG. I.) from its initial right-side-in condition into its final right-side-out condition preliminary to profile stitching the same, the apparatus includes two pairs of turning pins: relatively fixed forwardly projecting turning pins 15, and slidable turning pins 16. The turning pins of each pair are in axial alignment and the slidable pins are adapted to be moved into point engaging position relative to the fixedpins. Slidable pins 16 are supported on respective motor driven carriages 17 for motion along parallel lines axially coincident with the axes of the fixed pins 15. Carriages 17 move in tracks 18.

Die blade assembly 20 includes a pair of flexible die blades 28 and 29 arranged in generally coplanar relationship with respect to a common pivot point 30 and adapted to swing toward and away from each other. The die blades are mounted on a carriage 21 for rectilinear motion between a first or starting position adjacent to the fixed pins and a second position which places the blades above and immediately adjacent to a clamping jig designated generally as '40. Motor driven carriage 21 rides on wheels 23 in track 22. Suitable stops 26 and 27 are provided. Stop 26 includes a latch 38 for releasably securing the carriage to the stop. The die blades may be interchangeable to accommodate different collar sizes and shapes. Radial arms 32 and 33 are pivotably secured to die blades 28 and 29 respectively and are joined at pivot 34. Pivot 34 is fixedly attached to the piston 35 of pneumatic cylinder 36 such that extension and retraction of the piston causes the arms to pivot the die blades about point 30. A microswitch 37 is so operatively associated with cylinder 36 and carriage 17 that return of the carriage to its initial position strips the microswitch which in turn actuates cylinder 36.

Clamping jig 40 is located at the rear of table 12 and includes a base 41 having a recessed or open portion 42. A flap 44 is hinged to the base and may typically have a plurality of tiny pins 45 around a part of its periphery to grip the collar about its outer edge during withdrawal of the die blades. Base 41 may include a high friction material 46 disposed adjacent to recess 42 to aid in retaining the collar.

Microswitch 47 is operatively associated with flap 44 and latch 38 whereby closing the flap trips the microswitch to release the latch holding carriage 21. Microswitch 47 is also operatively associated with cylinder 36 and causes the piston to retract (collapsing the die blades) when the flap is closed. The clamping jig is rigidlymounted on an elevator platform 50 for vertical motion between a topstitching position and a receiving position. Air cylinder 52 (FIG. 2) raises and lowers the platform.

In a typical operating sequence, the collar pieces are slipped wrong-side-out over the fixed forwardly projecting pair of pins 15 The drive motors of carriages 17 are actuated bringing the sliding pins 16 into engagement with pins 15. The collar pieces are then hand-turned over the pins 16 and are simultaneously drawn right-side-out over the collapsed die blades. Deactivation of the carriage drive motors retracts pins 16 to their initial or starting position. Retraction of the pins trips microswitch 37 to actuate pneumatic cylinder 36. Pivot 34 is moved towards the rear of table 12 as a result of which radial arms 32 motor driven carriage 21 (and the die blades) is propelled towards the clamping jig. The clamping jig at this point is lowered to its receiving position. Stop 26 and latch 38 restrain further movement of the carriage in the track. The die blades are now located above and immediately adjacent to the clamping jig. The operator pushes flap 44 closed; the shaped collar is now held in the jig around its periphery. When the flap contacts the microswitch 47, cylinder 36 is actuated and collapses the die blades. Tripping the microswitch has also actuated latch 38 which releases carriage 21. The carriage then travels down the track and away from the jig. Stop 27 controls the extent of such travel. As a result, the collapsed die blades are withdrawn from the shaped garment part which is retained in the clamping jig. The jig ascends to its top-stitching position and a topstitching machine now stitches the turned collar around its seamed portion.

In the embodiment of the invention shown in FIGS. 4, 5 and 6 the collar is turned and shaped on a three-part collapsible form 200 (FIG. 6) which includes a left end section 210, and a right end section 220 and a center straight section 230. End sections 210 and 220 are mounted on motor driven carriages 215 and 225 respectively. The carriages move in divergent tracks 216 and 226 carrying the respective end sections from a starting position adjacent to the fixed points to the clamping jig. Center section 230 is rigidly mounted on a motor driven carriage 235 which moves in track 236 from an initial position near the forward end of table 12 to a final position which places the center section in complete alignment with the end sections. Tracks 216, 226 and 236 include magnetically activated latches 217, 227 and 237 at their end positions. These latches hold the several carriages (and respective end sections) in position above and adjacent to the clamping jig when the latter has descended to its load position. Adjacent to the inner edge and attached to each end section is a projecting portion 240 which facilitates insertion of the center section into the garment part by separating the face and lining plies from the back ply. Each end section also includes a clip 250 which is used to secure the turned garment part to each of the end sections.

A tim delay microswitch 260 is operatively associated with carriage l7 and motor driven carriages 215, 225 and 235 whereby retraction of pins 16 trips the microswitch and actuates the motors of carriages 215 and 225 and, after a time delay, the motor of carriage 235.

In a typical operating sequence, the multiple-ply collar is turned over the shifting pins 16 and is simultaneously handdrawn over the end sections of collapsible form 200 and secured thereto with clips 250. Retraction of pins 16 trips microswitch 260, actuating carriages 215 and 225. Clamping jig 40 descends to its load position to receive the turned collar being carried on the end sections to a position above and immediately adjacent to the jig. Projecting portions 240 have separated the face and lining plies from the back ply. The motor of carriage 235 is now actuated by microswitch 260. Center section 230 is now moved by its carriage between the lining and back plies and does so angularly disposed i.e., the leading edge is above the planar position of the trailing edge. Track 236 is so constructed to provide this angular travel. Just before the center section comes to its rest position in the garment part, it returns to a position parallel to and in alignment with end sections 210 and 220. This angular approach insures that the leading edge of section 230 will not bunch the selvage or unturned edge of the collar. The operator now closes flap 44 to secure the collar in the jig. In closing flap 44, microswitch 47 is tripped. In this embodiment, the microswitch is operatively associated with magnetic latches 217, 227 and 237. Latch 237 is first deenergized causing the center section to withdraw from the collar and roll down the track away from the jig. Now latches 217 and 227 are deenergized causing both end sections to withdraw from the collar and move in their respective tracks away from the jigs. The jig is then raised by air cylinder 52 to its topstitching position where a profile stitching machine stitches the turned collar around its seamed portion. If a cuff is being made, the use of the turning points is optional.

If desired, the clamping jig may be removably attached to the table to facilitate the removal of the jig to a profilestitching machine.

Although the invention has been described with reference to specific apparatus, it will be appreciated by a person skilled in the art that a wide variety of changes may be made without departing from the scope of this invention. Additionally, certain features may be used independently of others and equivalents may be substituted for the various apparatus elements and method steps all within the spirit and scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. In an apparatus for manufacturing a garment part, namely a collar or cuff, including a slidable die member adapted to receive and shape the part, the improvement wherein the die member comprises at least two separate flat plates, two of said plates having a portion of their periphery formed in the shape of at least the end portions of the part contour, and being so constructed and arranged as to be collapsible in toward one another and adapted in a collapsed condition to receive the part thereover and to form the shape of the part in an extended condition and in so doing to securely grip the part by means of the pressure exerted by the extended die plates, and the improvement including a clamping jig mounted for cooperation with the slidable die member and the jig having a bearing surface corresponding to the outline of the part as formed by the extended die plates and adapted to grip the part only along the edges thereof, and means for moving die plates into juxtaposition with the jig and then away from the jig after the part has been clamped in the jig, whereby the clamped part can be then topstitched in a profile stitching machine.

2. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the die plates comprise two plates pivotally connected at a common point.

3. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the die plates comprise two plates and wherein at least one of said plates is caused to ride in a track, said track angled such that movement of said one plate toward the jig is in a direction away from said other plate as both of said plates move toward the jig.

4. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the clamping jig comprises a base having a high friction material on its top surface.

5. The apparatus of claim 1 including a first pair of pins and a second pair of pins movable toward and away from said first set of pins in point to point relationship therewith and said second pair of pins being located below said slidable die plates and cooperating with said plates and said first pair of pins.

6. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the jig includes a top portion having a plurality of pins projecting therefrom to more securely grip the part in the jig. 

1. In an apparatus for manufacturing a garment part, namely a collar or cuff, including a slidable die member adapted to receive and shape the part, the improvement wherein the die member comprises at least two separate flat plates, two of said plates having a portion of their periphery formed in the shape of at least the end portions of the part contour, and being so constructed and arranged as to be collapsible in toward one another and adapted in a collapsed condition to receive the part thereover and to form the shape of the part in an extended condition and in so doing to securely grip the part by means of the pressure exerted by the extended die plates, and the improvement including a clamping jig mounted for cooperation with the slidable die member and the jig having a bearing surface corresponding to the outline of the part as formed by the extended die plates and adapted to grip the part only along the edges thereof, and means for moving die plates into juxtaposition with the jig and then away from the jig after the part has been clamped in the jig, whereby the clamped part can be then topstitched in a profile stitching machine.
 2. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the die plates comprise two plates pivotally connected at a common point.
 3. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the die plates comprise two plates and wherein at least one of said plates is caused to ride in a track, said track angled such that movement of said one plate toward the jig is in a direction away from said other plate as both of said plates move toward the jig.
 4. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the clamping jig comprises a base having a high friction material on its top surface.
 5. The apparatus of claim 1 including a first pair of pins and a second pair of pins movable toward and away from said first set of pins in point to point relationship therewith and said second pair of pins Being located below said slidable die plates and cooperating with said plates and said first pair of pins.
 6. The apparatus of claim 1 wherein the jig includes a top portion having a plurality of pins projecting therefrom to more securely grip the part in the jig. 